Clayton Green: The Beaumont

2:42pm Thursday 29th May 2008

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What is it about chefs that makes them want to destroy fresh crisp cabbage with some sort of redcurrant jelly?

I've been served this "house veg'' at two different pubs recently and fail to understand the appeal. What is wrong with good old-fashioned green cabbage?

A question I put to the chef at The Beaumont, one of the pubs in question, where my friend and I enjoyed excellent service, good drinks, with fine cask ales, but food that failed to impress.

Starters of garlic bread and cheese, served on a baguette, were lovely and plentiful but more like cheese on toast.

A potato and leek soup started off well but the consistency seemed to change as the meal cooled and it ended up too thick towards the end.

The description of a herb pudding filled with spinach and mozzarella tickled the tastebuds of my veggie pal, but it wasn't as appetising as it sounded.

The giant dome-shaped veggie pudding - made with veggie suet I assume although it wasn't stated - was moist on top and around the top-half, but like a brick at the bottom end and underneath. The inside of the pudding, which was about five or six inches in diameter, tasted a lot better than the bright green spinach made it look. The accompanying chef's potatoes', sliced and boiled, were soggy and bland.

A medium-cooked Ribeye steak with chips and veg' - including the cabbage described - was served without a sauce or gravy and was well, just steak.

Other places I've visited recommend a sauce or gravy addition but I couldn't find mention of this on the menu before I ordered, so I assumed it came with something. So a couple of grilled tomatoes from my friend's meal came in handy.

But the service at The Beaumont is second to none. Without being too pushy I found all the waitresses to be efficient, friendly and polite and the atmosphere warm and welcoming. The Scottish and Newcastle-owned pub is off the turning for Asda with plenty of parking and outdoor space.

How did it fare? (Out of six stars): Food **; Drink ****, Service *****, Atmosphere *****, Value ***.